Ernesto Naranjo Madrid Spring 2023 Collection


The Seville-born designer Ernesto Naranjo often pays tribute to 20th-century female artists through his collections. For his spring 2023 proposal, Lynda Benglis and Judy Chicago inspired the carefully developed ideas and colors that gave shape to his designs. “They are artists who have been overshadowed by male peers, so I wanted to celebrate them. I am inspired as much by their artistic work as by their personalities,” said the designer.

Naranjo studied at Central Saint Martins and worked with John Galliano at Maison Margiela and Olivier Rousteing at Balmain before founding his own brand. His Andalusian roots tend to be at the core of his creations, and if there is one signature of Naranjo’s fashion, it is the constant inspiration he finds in his family. In fact, with the aim of highlighting local tradition and craftsmanship, the designer produces his collections in the south of Spain, where he works with specialised artisans.

The cornucopia of shapes, textures, and colors that mark the identity of the brand are based on the reuse of fabrics and garments from previous seasons, with a consistent commitment to the creation of enduring fashion styles that avoid ephemeral trends.

This season, Naranjo gave his designs a sensual touch. “I wanted to explore the sensuality of women as done in the Japanese tradition. It’s a more sensual vision of showing skin in an elegant way and the paradox of dressing to evoke nudity by showing certain parts of a woman’s body that, at first, may not be considered sexy,” he said. Thus, V-necklines and sheer elements came mixed with the volumes that Naranjo is known for, this time in a more liquid way. “My volumes are still there, but now I wanted to experiment and turn them into something more fluid,” he explained.

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